Full Transcript Show Intro and Skin Care Episode Setup 0:03 Welcome to Hotness, the podcast that brings you practical tools to balance your hormones and rekindle connection, confidence, 0:10 and desire in midlife and beyond. 0:13 I'm your host, Dr. 0:14 Liz Lister. 0:15 Hotiness is a safe space for honest conversations about menopause, sex, identity, love, loss, reinvention,and desire, because you can embrace your hotness 0:28 at every age. 0:30 Welcome hot one to hotness the podcast that brings your hormones confidence and desire back online Today we are talking all about things related to our 0:43 skin Which becomes really something we have to pay attention to in midlife and beyond My guest is the wonderful Jen Rowell co-founder of the Glow Skin 0:53 and Body Salon in San Mateo, California. 0:56 I've known Jen for a really long time, and she's just delightful, super fun to talk to, really an expert. 1:02 She's a master aesthetician. 1:07 mixing all kinds of traditional modalities like a wonderful facial, as well as a more advanced modality. 1:15 Hydrofacials, peels, specialized fascia massage, lymphatic drainage, gua sha massage. 1:22 Love the gua Sha on anywhere really. 1:26 And so we just have a really fun conversation. 1:29 We talk about products that we have to add into our routine in order to keep our skin glowing and looking really good. 1:36 We know we have changes as we get older. 1:38 The crepey skin, the dullness, different things that can happen that, luckily, there are lots of solutions to. 1:46 Enjoy, please, my conversation with Jen Rowell. 1:52 Hi, Jen. 1:53 Welcome to Hotness. 1:54 Bye, Dr. 1:55 Liz. 1:56 I'm so excited to have you here.
Midlife Skin Changes and Common Concerns 2:00 quite a few years now, and I'm so excited for my listeners to hear your expertise with all things midlife skin related. 2:10 Yes. 2:10 Well, I've been with you 12 years. 2:12 You have been on my complete menopause journey from beginning to current and keeping me optimal all along the way. 2:21 Absolutely, which of course is my reason for being. 2:25 So let's jump in and can you tell us things that you see specific with midlife women? 2:30 Midlife, women, we are pretty nuts about our skin. 2:32 Let's start with the problems. 2:34 What are things you that see that women in mid-life are having happen with their skin? 2:38 We'll talk about solutions, but let us identify the problem. 2:41 Yeah, problems as we age, we have less oil production throughout our body. 2:46 So I definitely see it in the face. 2:47 There's more dryness in this skin. 2:49 People complain a lot about creepiness on their body, We've all been out in sun and have a good time. 2:58 We start to see fine lines, which then can turn into a wrinkle. 3:03 And the skin as we age, it starts to just kind of melt a little bit. 3:08 You know, the bone structure is there, but the collagen and the elastin production slip. 3:13 So the face just starts. 3:15 Make its way down. 3:17 and so that is a major complaint. 3:19 Next for sure chest, But just overall texture and that dewiness, that glowiness seems to be a struggle. 3:26 Yeah, I'm a very avid people watcher. 3:28 And a lot of times, if I have the opportunity to see mothers and daughters together, especially adults, even a younger daughter, 3:36 like teenage or adult daughter and her mom, i'm always just fascinated like, obviously, you can see the differences, but Why? 3:45 How come I can tell? 3:46 So that's some of the things that I'm... 3:49 You took care of your skin, you could also a lot of times look at your parents and kind of see how you're going to age. 3:54 Some people have amazing genes, but you know, if you've not been so great with the sun protection along the way, which most of us, 4:01 I was born in 64, those were the good times with baby oil and iodine and there's a price to pay. 4:08 Right, absolutely. 4:09 So we'll talk about how to help women fix that because I know that you do that. 4:14 Let's see, so more with that. 4:17 You mentioned collagen, you mentioned elastin production. 4:20 Of course, hormones are going to be supportive and helpful with. 4:24 So we know I love talking about that, but I want to focus more on your areas of expertise. 4:31 Now, I know that for myself, i've had to really up my game with my skin care. 4:37 There was a time, I would say, for sure, 20s and 30s, maybe into my 40s where I could just, if I was really tired at night, 4:46 just splash a little water on my face and go to sleep, but not anymore. 4:50 So can you speak to what we need to be doing for our own maintenance routine? 4:58 And also that, the skincare aisle is pretty insane at many different places. 5:06 and everywhere, right? 5:07 You could go to a CVS, you could be in a professional skin care salon, everyone's got something for everything. 5:15 But some of the very basics, a good sunscreen, and they've come a long way these days. 5:21 And you can find one, but I just always think if your skin is oily, maybe you would be more into a more natural-based silicone-free kind of sunblock. 5:31 If you're a dryer like I am, I like my moisturizer in my sun block. 5:35 I'd like it to be kind-of a one-stop-shop. 5:38 Some people fear chemicals. 5:40 There's a lot of great sunblocks out there that are chemical-base that can really hydrate your skin. 5:45 In my opinion, there's no point in putting an expensive serum, a retinoid, doing all of that if you are not going to wear a sun-block every single day. 5:53 because it just all goes out the window. 5:55 You could be driving to work on a sunny day. 5:57 Boom. 5:58 So sunblock is very, very important.
Daily Skin Care Essentials and Product Order 6:01 A good cleanser. 6:02 I know as we get older, you know, I don't wake up dirty in the morning. 6:06 Sometimes I do splash water on my face in morning, but if I'm going to bed, do make sure that my skin is ready. 6:13 to prep all the ingredients that I'm going to put onto it. 6:16 As we get older, a retinoid, again many, many choices there, professional skincare line, Oilovole, your dermatologist, but that will turn over your skin. 6:28 When you and I were young in our 20s, we would have a skin turnover of about 22 days. 6:33 Our skin would come, the cell would be created, come to the surface, fly off into the wind. 6:38 We were hydrated and moist and we would run around. 6:41 As you get older, 22, 23, 24, you can get up to 40 days. 6:45 And that makes your skin look a little crepey, a less reflective. 6:50 So a retinoid will turn your skincare over. 6:53 That's the magic. 6:54 It helps with acne, it helps wrinkles, but it spins your cycle around it takes about I would say a good three months, I think, 7:02 for a retinoid to get into your skin and do the work. 7:06 It is only put on at night. 7:08 You can do it about four to five days a week, is ample, but that will stimulate collagen and an elastin. 7:15 As far as an ingredient in skincare, retonoids are probably the king of anti-aging. 7:21 The queen would be vitamin C. 7:24 Again, all kinds of serums out there, but vitamin c is kind of a mainstay. 7:28 Put in the morning, it helps with collagen and elastin production. 7:33 It also increases your SPF from the inside out. 7:38 So it's got major antioxidant properties. 7:40 I love if I've been going. 7:43 Vitamin C. 7:43 It's a great one. 7:45 And even at the end of the day, it kind of stops the cascade of damage. 7:49 So even if you are wearing sunblock, a sun is always going to get in a little bit. 7:53 If you're more sunny, I do like to use vitamin C morning and night. 7:57 But vitamin c tends to be like a mainstay in most people's arsenal. 8:01 A good moisturizer. 8:03 Do you need oil-free? 8:04 Do need deep hydration? 8:05 I currently am into face oils. 8:07 You could stick me in a vat of olive oil, a bathtub of it, and I would be thrilled. 8:12 Now, if you're oily skin, you would not like that. 8:15 Like me. 8:15 So I'm oily-skin, lifelong oily, skin. 8:18 And luckily for me, I knew that that would stand me good stead later on, like in midlife. 8:24 I know it would help, so I didn't complain too much. 8:27 But definitely oily skins. 8:30 So oil free, you want to be hydrated. 8:33 You have enough oil in your skin. 8:34 So I don't need to kind of submerge you in everything, but you do want stay hydrated and so an oil-free these days, they're amazing. 8:42 you will not get surface dry with that. 8:45 I'm a big believer in eye cream. 8:46 The eye area is different. 8:48 There are no oil glands around this. 8:50 the eye and the neck tricky. 8:52 If you put too much retinol on a neck, You will know it real quick. 8:58 But definitely padding on an eye cream around the eye orbital area. 9:01 It diminishes the look of fine lines Absolutely. 9:05 So trying to find the right one again Do you want it to be a gel based or a cream all up to you oily skin? 9:11 You might prefer a jail versus a crane but those are kind of my, there's so many serums, you know, I always describe the vitamin C, 9:19 the serum is like the underwear of the skincare line. 9:22 You pay the most for it and yet it disappears and it disappeared because it's very hard to get an ingredient to penetrate the skin. 9:31 And you'll think, oh my God, it so loosey goosey and its gone. 9:34 It's supposed to be gone, its supposed just fall right into your skin and kind disappear. 9:38 But are you working on pigmentation? 9:41 Are you creepiness, sagginess? 9:43 Collagen production? 9:45 All kinds of serums these days. 9:47 Vitamin C growth factors. 9:48 There's so much out there. 9:50 So much good stuff. 9:51 I know. 9:52 It really can get overwhelming. 9:54 Okay, so to summarize, what are the layers every woman in midlife should use on her skin? 9:59 Are we starting with the cleanser? 10:01 Yes, I love an oil cleansers.I tend to be drier, but you as an oily skin person, oil attracts oil.It will not make you feel greasy at all. 10:10 And the oil cleaners these days, when you add water to them, they tend the suds up a little bit. 10:15 So it's not like you're wiping it off with a face cloth. 10:18 You can really, it's a beautiful way to take your makeup off. 10:21 And even when I'm doing facials, I find so often when doing a cleanse, a lot of people's foundation gets caught around the nose, 10:28 in the eyes. 10:29 They think they're taking their makeup of, but do not be shy. 10:32 With an oil, you get that beautiful spread. 10:35 It takes off all the mascara. 10:37 So I always start with an oral cleanser, and then my second cleanse is a gel cleansers. 10:42 This is at night. 10:43 I don't do two cleanses in morning. 10:46 Then while my skin is dry, I personally put on at night. 10:49 I do a growth factor, which. 10:53 These are the messengers to the body. 10:54 And as we get older, we make less of these and they remind us to produce collagen and elastin. 11:00 They tighten up your skin, they improve skin texture. 11:03 I love a good growth factor. 11:06 So I always layer that on and let it go in. 11:09 Then a retinoid on top of that, depending, uh, I would follow what are, the instructions would be. 11:15 Anything you get from your dermatologist at Trenton Owen and such is going to be I say powerful, but not always in such a good way because it can cause 11:25 redness and inflammation and peeling and it will stop. 11:30 I prefer professional grade retinol, which will go literally into the pore or the cell, communicate with it. 11:36 It's almost like I opened the door. 11:40 and it operates in the skin on a very anti-inflammatory way, stimulating collagen and elastin. 11:47 They are not super hydrating, so I will then put a face oil or a moisturizer on top with an Ike. 11:55 And then in morning, I like to use a lactic acid cleanser just because when you are using retinol, you're increasing your skin turnover. 12:04 You're not going to get a flakiness per se, but you skin cells that you can't see with the human eye. 12:11 So a beautiful lactic acid cleanser. 12:14 If you just leave it on, it's like a little mini peel. 12:16 You rinse that off, your skin will absolutely feel softer. 12:20 And then I layer my vitamin C and then, I do my sunblock. 12:24 I do my eye cream and I did my sunblock. 12:26 So a little simpler in the morning, but nighttime is when your brain heals. 12:30 It's when you're skin can heal. 12:32 Take a lil extra time. 12:34 And I would suggest as soon as you get in, wash that face because you know what it's like when start to watch your Netflix show. 12:40 Uh, you go into bed when older with stuff on your face. 12:45 No bueno. 12:47 Right. 12:47 You want to clean it off the daytime thing and get those and let them work. 12:55 Okay. 12:55 This is really, this is amazing because you're identifying specific items that I'm not sure I've even added to my routine as a woman in midlife.
In-Office Treatments: Facials, Dermaplaning, Peels, and LED 13:06 Okay? 13:06 Do you use a retinoid now? 13:09 I was using it very consistently for a long time and then I went to have a facial done and she was saying things were very red and I realized that all 13:17 the layers had the retinoid product in it, and it was too much. 13:24 But I may have thrown the baby out with the bath water, so I need to come to a consultation with you. 13:28 I'll bring all of my products and I will show you, but the layers that I have understood are cleansing and then a toner. 13:36 serum and some type of cream, some kind of moisturizer. 13:41 And then, so that's the order I do things in. 13:45 Then my favorite product is, which is all I have on right now as a base, I don't use foundation, it's too thick, but I use a tinted sunscreen. 13:56 Yes, right. 13:57 That's what I put on there. 13:59 Okay. 13:59 Yes. 14:00 And just kind of, you know, if you have freckles or whatever, You're still going to see them, but that's wonderful. 14:05 Then, that is fine for our day. 14:06 But of course, again, If we're in Hawaii, I'm just going use that as an example, we must be reapplying. 14:11 If you're just out and about, because even when you are in your office, and you were getting damage from the overhead lights, 14:17 us talking right now with the blue light, That is also breaking down college. 14:22 Even for those that work from home, you would definitely want to have a sunblock on if you're working from your computer all day. 14:28 That is amazing, that is so good to know. 14:30 All right, wonderful. 14:31 And I can't wait to make little lists for this conversation that we're having that I'll put links to. 14:37 Let's see, now, how does a woman know when she needs to come in for a treatment? 14:43 Tell us about actual treatments that... 14:46 I hear about these things all the time. 14:48 I love facials, I have them pretty regularly. 14:52 But what about a peel or other types of... 14:57 Dermaplaning, for instance. 14:59 Yes, all of those. 15:01 Walk us through a little bit of that. 15:03 Yeah. 15:04 When you say treatment, I mean, a facial to me is the steaming and the cleansing and extractions. 15:09 And in my facials, lots of massage. 15:11 I'm a very, very big believer that my hands can do more than any machine. 15:19 Lymphatic drainage, lifting the skin that way. 15:21 But a treatment would be, for instance, dermaplaning. 15:24 Dermaplaining, we are trained to do this, is done with a scalpel blade and it is in a certain motion. 15:31 Now you can buy cheap little devices that they sell all over the place. 15:35 to take off vellus hair, which women have, but that is, it will take of tiny little bit of vellers hair. 15:41 So people maybe use it on their upper lips sometimes or their chin. 15:45 You want to make sure you only use that cheap blade once. 15:47 And I'm not, I say cheap just because you can get it over the counter. 15:50 But with a dermaplaning treatment, It is a process of taking off the vells hair which is why most people do that because the way this, 15:57 the light will hit your face, The way your makeup goes on, its beautiful. 16:01 but it also takes off layers and layers of dead skin, originally devised by dermatologists so they could penetrate a peel deeper. 16:11 I love a good dermaplating. 16:13 It is unbelievable how the skin looks and what it will absorb. 16:17 There's no other exfoliation I can do that's deeper for my level of practice, and we pair it with LED light therapy. 16:26 Sometimes I pair it with a sheet mask. 16:28 It is incredible, but it is a treatment. 16:31 I always do like to do some massage at the end of that because I like penetrate stuff. 16:34 But dermaplaning, if you're feeling dull and dry, is unbelievable. 16:40 Hydrofacial is very popular. 16:42 A done with, a wand with the suction device that puts in serums and sucks out debris at same time. 16:48 Great for extractions, can give you a very, very nice glow. 16:51 That's a great one. 16:53 Peels, my gosh, there are so many. 16:56 Ones that will make you peel, ones that I call, we do a peel that's a growth factor peel and it is the no peel peel. 17:05 That will give you a beautiful exfoliation and then start to generate collagen and elastin underneath. 17:12 And then of course, again, you don't underestimate a basic classic European facial. 17:17 Enzymes again taking off the dead skin people feel because you leave so soft because your probably not doing that depth of exfoliation at home But you 17:28 also think the key dr. 17:29 Liz is being still on a bed my bed you are forced to be still for an hour hour and a half however long the treatment is and You just don't do that at Home 17:41 and the amount of times people fall asleep which again is so good for your skin Just to give yourself a little bit of time and then wake up Looking better 17:49 than you came in. 17:50 It's a joy. 17:50 Absolutely. 17:51 I love that I'm so glad you mentioned the European because my family's from Argentina Whenever I go there, I will usually have a really extended facial 18:01 while I am there So that gets really interesting because I don't always understand the products that she's talking about I really have to do quite a bit 18:09 of extra research for that, but she also has this sort of interesting instrument. 18:14 it's like a glass instrument with like some kind of electrical current is that does that sound yeah okay sometimes you can use that um by frequency you. 18:25 Can use it to penetrate a product you could use. 18:28 It to if you've done a lot of extractions on people that yes and it is definitely still in use and. 18:35 it was definitely the europeans that started that we find what we do today is more led light therapy you have red light and blue light which i cannot say 18:43 enough about the benefits are amazing Red light, that collagen and elastin stimulates blood flow, will literally penetrate deeper than any ingredient can 18:53 get you. 18:54 So right now you can get amazing masks. 18:57 Shark Beauty makes a beautiful one. 18:58 I think they even have it at Costco now. 19:00 They look like a catcher's mitt. 19:02 You could wear it around the house and get that amazing mitt at home. 19:06 The Blue Light, if you are suffering from breakouts, is incredible. 19:11 It kills acne bacteria below the surface level. 19:16 It tightens up your pores. 19:17 It reduces redness. 19:19 it reduces oil production. 19:20 So instead of high frequency, we tend to do our facials with either red or blue light. 19:27 But again, that is one device that you can get at home that it's so easy to use and is really, really good these days. 19:34 hot. 19:35 They're great at home. 19:37 Worth it for $300. It's well worth it. 19:40 And it's something that you have for a long time. 19:43 All the time you would make in your coffee. 19:46 Okay, minute timer, make your copy. 19:48 Your skin is already plumped up. 19:50 You're watching again Netflix. 19:52 Um, you could hit a couple cycles, do red and blue. 19:56 When you do light therapy, it is wonderful. 19:59 And they're using it now for hair growth. 20:01 You can almost get baseball caps in it. 20:08 Kudos. 20:09 That is so great. 20:10 Oh my gosh. 20:10 I definitely am going to need to ask you more about that. 20:13 All right. 20:13 What about, just tell us just briefly a little bit of what's different at a dermatologist's office? 20:20 What are situations where you think that a woman needs to see a dermatologist and what types of procedures are they going do and in what scenarios? 20:31 You don't have to tell me at length, but just like a bit a reference, when does a women need go to that step? 20:38 A dermatologist is very important. 20:42 Number one, to have yearly skin checks. 20:44 I've had some melanoma removed on my nose. 20:47 They are very thorough. 20:48 they will cover, you know, your feet to your body to under your breasts, in your hairline. 20:52 Skin cancer is a very prevalent. 20:54 So number one. 20:55 Yes, everyone should have a dermatologists for that reason. 20:58 There are the ones that can inject you with Botox.
When to See a Dermatologist and Advanced Procedures 21:03 They can do different lasers, for instance the IPL, the intense pulse light, people that have hyperpigmentation and brown spots, 21:12 maybe they don't want to use the serum for six months. 21:14 You can go to a dermatologist, that laser will specifically just grab onto those brownspots and they almost look like Folger's crystals when they come out. 21:23 They're dark brown spot and then they just fly away into the wind. 21:27 And you normally do it in the winter, you'll need a couple of sessions. 21:31 A V-beam laser, great if we get a lot of broken capillaries, some people get on their cheeks, around the nose, super helpful for that. 21:39 All kinds of lasers to stimulate collagen. 21:43 I just think the tricky thing is I find a lotta people are coming in with jowls and a laser can only do so much. 21:51 You can only lift the skin so much, even with a filler, you can lift it so. 21:56 So if it comes to a point that this is really bothering you, that is a plastic surgeon's territory, but you could certainly fend it off for a little while 22:04 and a botox on the forehead. 22:05 That can be a game changer for people. 22:08 You got to be careful about that filler and overfilling because then it can look a. 22:11 Odd. 22:15 Indeed, indeed. 22:16 And I'm always sad when very young women, because that's popular now with super young woman. 22:23 I think people look older. 22:26 I visit my mom in California sometimes and it's definitely a look down there and I'm like, hmm. 22:33 Yeah. 22:33 Exactly. 22:36 That is so wonderful. 22:39 And I know that I could just keep asking you questions, which I will when I get to see you. 22:44 Yes. 22:45 So I definitely can tell that I want to come in to do a consultation with you and bring you all the products I'm currently using. 22:53 I even have a little red light blue light device that i got at a medical conference and I have no idea how to use it. 23:01 It's an attachment to a massage gun and i've used it for that purpose but I haven't used the redlight bluelight so i'm really happy to learn about that 23:13 with when people do do that because I like to talk about ingredients and definitely I will say this to the professional skincare lines put a lot of science 23:21 into that and just the quantity and quality of the active ingredient in a professional skin care line versus an over counter and when I say over the counter 23:29 oil of LA I've got nothing against it but if you do want to see a change if probably 40 and older, you want a quality vitamin C. 23:39 It does matter. 23:40 There is a science to the delivery system of a vitamin c. 23:43 Uh, there is science or retinol. 23:45 there's even a side to a hyaluronic acid, which we naturally contain in our skin. 23:51 So maybe, if you were trying to pick and choose as far as spending money on something, a really good serum and a retinoid Yes, 23:59 because I think you can find some blocks all across the line these days. 24:02 I do like when people bring that in. 24:07 And sometimes with my clients too, I have clients that come in every month and I always vary the treatments. 24:12 But if I saw you and we were scheduled for a dermaplaning and you had a lot of you've been in the sun, i'm going to switch that right over to something else. 24:21 you know, how often do you get a facial in a perfect world? 24:25 You know once every month I do have clients that are able to do that. 24:28 I have client that come in four times a year. 24:30 All of a sudden their daughter's getting married and everything matters all of the sudden. 24:37 I also would say have a facial when you just want to be still and have hutch and massage and your neck stretch and you're face lifted. 24:47 I will take before and afters of my clients, especially when I'm doing wash-all, which is a lymphatic drainage kind of massage. 24:56 It is unbelievable. 24:59 Yeah, lovely.
Salon Info, Consultation Advice, and Closing Reflections 25:00 That is beautiful. 25:01 I love that. 25:02 If someone wants to learn more about your studio, your salon, they want to do a consult with you. 25:09 What's the best way to reach you? 25:10 Best way is through our website, lowskinembody.com. 25:15 We are located in San Mateo, California. 25:20 Woo, 22 years. 25:22 We have been awarded best facials, best waxing, and San Mateo numerous times. 25:27 I have three amazing partners. 25:29 And I've been an esthetician for 30 years, most of my partners have. 25:34 we absolutely know what we're doing, we want it to be a comfortable feel, I'm not about shaming you when you come in if you're not doing the right thing, 25:42 that I am not having 12 products for you to buy when leave. 25:47 It's a discussion, it's journey. 25:50 You know, some people will make the investment, others will just kind of keep going. 25:54 And that's all fine and dandy. 25:55 I mean, if I can make you feel good for that day, that is great as well. 26:00 But it is a partnership and it's been such a wonderful career. 26:05 Like I said, for 30 years, I've been to weddings, watched people come in pregnant, have their babies. 26:11 Now I work on their daughters, work with their husbands. 26:17 Beautiful. 26:18 That is such a gift. 26:19 I want to wrap us up by asking you a question that I ask each of my guests, which is, what is one thing that you personally do to connect to your own hotness? 26:38 feel my hottest when I am in gratitude, when i see the blessings around me, whether it's my small business that is still a success after 22 years, 26:50 these relationships that I have with clients, if someone is having a bad day, making someone feel better, but just being in Gratitude about the products 27:00 that i have in my bathroom, the home that, I live in, my sweet, sweet husband, a career that Gratitude is the ultimate prayer, 27:10 and that is when I feel my very, very best. 27:12 That is so wonderful. 27:14 Thank you so much. 27:16 And I look forward to seeing you again soon. 27:18 Yes, please do. 27:19 I would love to give you a facial. 27:20 My god, you would. 27:21 Love it. 27:21 Awesome. 27:22 Bye, Dr. 27:24 Lisa. 27:27 Thanks for listening to Hotness. 27:29 Help more women find these practical tools by liking, sharing, following the show, as well as leaving a review. 27:36 As a gift for listening, go to drlizmd.com forward slash hotness for your free midlife guide filled with powerful support for you mind, 27:47 body and soul because you can embrace your hotnes at every age.
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